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There are two methods of attaching hair to wigs. The first and oldest is to weave the root ends of the hair onto a warp of three silk threads to form a sort of fringe called a "weft". The wefts are then sewn to a foundation made of net or other material. In modern times, the wefts can also be made with a specially adapted sewing machine, reducing the amount of hand labour involved.
In the 19th century another method came into use. A small hook called a "ventilating needle", similar to the tambour hooks used for decorating fabric with chain-stitch embroidery at that period, is used to knot a few strands of hair at a time directly to a suitable foundation material. This newer method produces a lighter and more natural looking wig. High quality custom wigs, and those used for film and theatrical productions are usually done this way. It is also possible to combine the two techniques, using weft for the main part of the wig and ventilating hair at the edges and partings to give a fine finish.
Making custom wigs starts with measuring the subject's head. The natural hair is arranged in flat curls against the head as the various measurements are taken. It is often helpful to make a pattern from layers of transparent adhesive tape applied over a piece of plastic wrap, on which the natural hairline can be traced accurately.
These measurements are then transferred to the "block", a wooden or cork-stuffed canvas form the same size and shape as the client's head.
There are two basic types of wigs, the glued on lace wigs or the multi-directional skin top wig, the latter often worn by orthodox Jewish women. The lace front wigs have a lacey front that you cut to the shape of your hairline and glue down. The multi-directional wigs usually have a comb, two clips by the ears and two clips at the nape of the neck to hold it in place, the cap of the wig will be stretchy enough to accommodate a ponytail of one's own hair underneath.
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